Last Week

From Maggie

Melbourne is the same - or at least St. Kilda is. We invade Jake's space again, just in time for ANZAC Day (OZ's Memorial Day). A day of footy, friends and brews. A good time was had by all. Good times included a Collingwood win, SingStar, Guitar Hero and Mt. Gay Rum.

The next morning, deathly hungover (myself only), we jetted out for Sydney. Susanna was a saint and put up with me in my miserable state for a entire 24 hrs. Needless to say, we put hiring a camper-van temporarily on hold. The following morning we're at the Britz, Maui, Backpackers megaplex. Our car karma turned out to be great. We locked into a Backpackers camper-van which is turning out to be the most functional and comfortable rental yet.

Before venturing to Sydney, we booked out tickets to Bali. We fly out May 1st. Partially because we wanted warmer water/weather and mostly because OZ is financially draining. So we are in our new portable home for the next 5 days until hitting the island life full on.

From Sydney we went to north to Manly Beach. A bustling beach town with no shortage of surfers. When we arrived, it was side-shore with chest high peaks. Of course I got in. It felt great to be submerged after a few days of city life. Also to wash away any remnants of my sloth-like existence the day prior. The water was a little warmer, but the wind was a little bit chilly. It Apparently, it was snowing inland and the natural airflow brought that cold air to the coast. It has been that way for a few days now. Eventually, blowing the surf flat and making for some seriously cold nights.

North Narrabeen was out first campsite. A renowned wave right out front but the previously mentioned winds had blown it down to all but a foot. Still there were 18 guys out on a single peak. It reminded me of Seaside in the summertime. The next crisp night was spent lakeside at Lake Macquire. A nice enough place, but we aren't lake faring people. It ended up being a good spot to buckle down for some more work. Our only experience with the locals consisted of us spectating a bunch of kids playing footy in one of the park's open fields. It was the Australian version of the "Sandlot".

Now, we are even further north at the Karuah Jetty Big 4. Earlier today, upon arrival, we went straight (by the Rock Roadhouse Cafe) to Hawk's Beach. A spectacular stretch of white sand beach with some fun peelers to be had. It just so happened that the winds, having decreased and switched direction were luckily offshore here. The water was also cooperative. Suitable for a top and trunks. I caught a bunch of fun ones and walked off the beach with a grin.

This passage will probably be the last for a spell. We travel back down south to Sydney tomorrow, drop the van off by for and check into a motel for our early morning departure to paradise.

p.s. While writing this, a Magpie (ornery local bird and mascot to Jake's beloved Collingwood and whose name just happens to be "Maggie") just walked all through our van in search of food. It honed in on the bag of cashews and walked across my laptop to the back of the van for a taste. She ended up ingesting a few as well as some chilli chip crumbs. Apparently, it had been hand raised since a chick by a local holiday park lifer. How many folks can claim they pet a magpie?

GOR

From The Lighthouse

I think I've worn out the synonyms. They no longer have the charm they once did - at least for me. If I come across any noteworthy ones in the future, I'll be sure to share.

With many miles traveled, good times had and work done, I find myself writing once again about what has happened in the not so distant past yet it feels like an eternity. My last point referenced along the Great Ocean Road within the unrelenting grips of the "Caddy".

From Anglesea we took a short tour down "the road", stopped at an historic lighthouse and ended up at Wye River. A tiny little spot among many tiny little spots on this expanse of coastal highway. An easy choice for us really. It was a Big 4, it had wireless and a nice right hand point break out in front. No waves when we got there, but the following morning had some fast waist high crumblers ripe for the taking. I was particularly happy about this since our last night's sleep was less than stellar.

Imagine you're in "a van down by the river" and while sleeping a few mosquitos buzz about your head. Then a few more and a few more after that. When you finally decide to sit up in bed, all the buzzing hits you at once and you'd swear you're inside a hive. Well that's what happened and I spent the majority of the next couple hours swatting them in my hands, against the car, on susanna (she was livid) and with my shirt. In every instance that I was successful, they'd be a drop of blood (ours I'd hoped) until the sleeping area of the car was littered with specs. It was a serious crime scene and I was the one with blood all over my hands. I was so annoyed by my tribulations of the night that I was convinced the campsite manager put us by the river on purpose. "Oh sure, put the tourists in mosquito alley, that'll be a laugh riot."

After some friendly banter with a local out in the water at Wye River, he suggested that Johanna (An alternate contest location for the Bell Beach) would be bigger and positioned more favorably for the current wind direction. Susanna and I just had our next destination! We cruised around the southern point of Cape Otway and arrived at the southwest facing beach of Johanna late that afternoon. Fortunately, there was free camping.

Johanna is far from right off the road. It's about 8km through farmland to get to. It's a beautiful beach so it gets a few tourists, but mostly fisherman and surfers. The next morning we woke up to solid swell and offshore breezes. It was only a little overhead on the set, but man, the bicept burn to get out into the lineup was severe - a whole heck of a lot of water moving around out there. I surfed for a while with two other guys. Trading waves was real easy when it takes the last person who caught one, 5-10 minutes to paddle back out. After catching a few good ones, I opt not to head back into the treadmill of water. Funny this about that session was that the two other guys who were out there, were also from California. Both studying abroad in Adelaide from the San Luis Obispo area.

With the early morning surf out of the way, we keep on marching west, toward the "12 Apostles". A huge tourist trap along the GOR, but definitely worth seeing. They are large (vertically speaking) islands just off the coastline. They've formed by the deterioration of the limestone cliffs. Over hundreds of year the cliff side erodes away and around a portion of land, leaving it still standing. They were really breathtaking and with a decent swell in the water, it made the coastline movie-like. Plumes of whitewater crashing against vertically islands of rock. From one of the lookout points, we even saw a few surfers towing into the waves!

When we got done oowing and aahing, we kept on till the next town of Port Campbell. Lunch at the "12 Rocks" cafe seemed appropriate. From our table out on the patio I saw a surfer kick out at the end of a wave coming into the harbor. After some further investigation, I surveyed a nice right point with only five guys out. Not knowing when the swell will fade and if I'd even get a chance to surf wherever I am at that time again, I've gotten to the point where I don't contemplate too long anymore, I just go. Turned out to be pretty fun even with it's terribly dodgy locals only (down a shear cliff face) entry point. It also gave Sus a bit of time in the sun. She's mad she's still white.

By the end of the "12 Apostles" day, we're in Warrnambool. Our favorite town along the Great Ocean Road by far. There we caught an hysterical (although they were quite serious about it) laser show depicting a famous shipwreck. Apparently there are numerous throughout the region. We rented bikes and rode throughout the coastal community, stopping at some epic playgrounds (flying fox!) on the way. We stopped at a volcanic crater which coincidentally had an Aboriginal Apology festival happening. Warrnambool also had the most fantastic thrift store I'd even been to. Susanna literally had to restrain herself. I however, could not resist and bought something for our gracious host, Jake. Vintage beatles tee and autobiography, original pressing.

And then there was the surf. Still on our lucky streak, we happened upon, Logan's Beach. Well, not really happened, but after I convinced the i-lady I wasn't a beginner, she gave us directions. An awesome little beach break on the outskirts of town. Kind of dumpy and mostly ridden by body boarders, it defied its stereotype and produced a memorable session, filled with hot snaps, head dips and punts. The most fun I've had in foreign waters yet.

By this point, the GOR is about done, but we have nothing but time on our hands so we decide to continue west. Our next two, mostly uneventful stops, were Port Fairy and then Portland. Port Fairy is a small town, popular in the summer months. During our brief visit, it was dead. There was only one discernible surf spot there. A right rock point break. At the time, completely windblown, with five guys on it. A couple of which thought it was still good enough out there to snake one another for a wave. Ah, no thanks. Wave possibilities looked up in Portland. It has a few small peninsulas, picking up swell from a variety of directions. In addition, with its land unique land formation, it allows you to easily pinpoint a beach where the wind is offshore. I grabbed a local surf map from the i-site and checked one spot out. It was perfectly sunny, offshore, but only a couple feet. I decided, with end of the month looming, I'd better get on with surfshot. I spent that afternoon the the port fairy library. I would have liked to extend our stay in Portland, but we chose that as our turn around point.

Next stop Wye River, then back into Melbourne. No surf, just work.

p.s. Our last two nights on the road, we sprung for a cabin. The "Caddy" officially broke me down.

Time=Money

From Around Melbourne

I thought the world wide web was free. Like some unalienable right we all have. If so, why do I keep on having to pay for it? I have my own laptop. I'm not using anyone's equipment. At $2 for 15 minutes, I'm disgusted at their price gouging but have no alternative but to fork over the coin.

Piss=Beer

From Good times in...

So our new camper-van is not quite up to the "Zinny" standard. 5-speed manual VW "Caddy". I've already tried to start the car without the clutch in - they lurch forward in Australia too! It's considerably smaller so I've really become a living giant. And with all of the junk that we're toting around, it's a tight squeeze at night. Thank goodness it has roof racks (for the boards). The fold out bed takes up about 3/4 of the inside area. If you were ever worried that they wouldn't be able to recreate that sleeper sofa feel inside a vehicle, rest easy, mission accomplished. A taco mattress with metal support bars, for added comfort, are it's distinguishing features. It's only been one night and I'm already cursing the damn thing. I can't wait for the ensuing week. I pray the waves come up so I'll be extra tired from an exercise filled day. My only other option is to hit the piss hard and pass out. I really hope we get some waves soon.

Brass=Excellent

From Crater Hike/O...

About an hour and a half southwest of Melbourne starts The Great Ocean Road. A long stretch of highway with scenic views and countless surf spots along it's route. Hopefully, our swell timing will change for this trip.

The famous road essentially begins in Torquay, "The Surf Capital". The spot where Billabong and Rip Curl began. Also the home to the very rad Australian Surf Museam. The was a must and sort of a prerequisite for our drive down the Great Ocean Road.

Not but a short distance from Torquay is another famous surf icon, Bells Beach. Home of the Rip Curl Pro every Easter for the past 20 some years. Of course we stopped. Seeing the weather as it was, cold, windy and overcast, I still had hopes of seeing this epic spot going off! Pulled up, not a car in the lot or a soul in the water. Once again, great spot, no surf.

The views are breathtaking and the ocean big and blue. Ever so beautiful even though lacking in surf. It now being our second day on the GOR, we have staked our claim at another BIG 4 (Oz's equivalent to NZ's Top 10). A great spot to catch up on work and some much needed updates.

We're back on the trail again. The vastness of the open road and possibilities around each bend are much more appealing than the confined routine of the city. The sight of mother ocean right outside the car door or just in the distance puts me at ease and into another state of mind. Absolutely brass!

Heeps=A lot

From Around Melbourne

Melbourne is Chuck Taylors, mohawks and meet pies. A very western place where art and culture, the ocean and and footy (Australian Rules Football) are all at your fingertips. We've been here for a week now. And with the exception of a few out of town excursions, we're been recuperating from the whirlwind that was New Zealand. It has been quite easy to get back into ordering delivery, lounging on the couch and pa-rousing the internet at our leisure.

Susanna's friend Jake and his two roommies, Sally & Claire have been so hospitable during our stay. Putting up with our luggage, that took over their dining room, to the sleeping mattress that fills their entire living room floor. They've been so nice and we really appreciate it. As luck would have it, Jake is on a break from work for three weeks. Thus, becoming our personal guide to Melbourne.

Our first night in town (Wed) Jake took us out to see a couple comedians. The Australian Comedy Tour was in town, with heeps of comedians performing for two weeks straight. The first guy we saw was from the UK and an extremely fast talker. For American ears, this posed a bit of a problem. I wasn't always able to catch his subtle humor or make out the beginning/end of some of his one liners. Thank goodness laughter is universal. Overall it was a good show. The next comic was another gent from across the pond. He was more of a story teller with jokes thrown in and a moral at the end. An entertaining show, but by the time he finished, Susanna and I were nodding off in out chairs.

A couple nights later we kicked it off with some fierce RummiKub battles. In the background, the footy game was on and we were formally introduced to Australian Rules Football. Jake had some buddies over who are also fanatic supporters (fans) so we got the scoop on scoring, rules, players and of course, rivalries. We finished up the footy game and the night at the "Prince" (pub) down the block. Bars close at 3a.m. here. Needless to say the next day was a wash.

Jake lives in a quaint suburb along the Bay. Shops, restaurants and bars all within walking distance from his house. A local tram at the end of the block that picks up for the city and surrounding areas. For someone who hates walking, I've done a lot of it lately. And strangely enough, I'm not that upset about it.

More relaxing, ordering in, checking email, uploading pictures (link on left of page) and drinking pots (smaller than a pint). The days are cruising by and It's really starting to feel like an extended vacation. In New Zealand we followed an itinerary, but in Oz we've got nothing pressing (except for our departure ticket). It's so frickin' nice!

NZ has rugby and Oz has footy. This past Sunday (Susanna's B-day) Jake treated us to a footy match. Collingwood Magpies vs. Carlton Blues. We took the tram into the city and stopped for a few warmup pots. Here, I grilled Jake on the games particulars as to be able to increase my validity as a Collingwood supporter. Rolling up to the stadium with 77 thousand other crazed fans was great. You could feel the electricity in the air. Tis the usual with any large professional sporting event. To my surprise, there aren't sections for opposing fans. All the seats are mixed and for the most part the people behave. What a stark contrast to the European soccer supporters. Behind us sat a 10 yr. old Collingwood fan that was sheer entertainment. Face painted with team colors on, shouts that periodically came from him were, "man up boys!" and "c'mon pies!". Even with his team down, his enthusiasm never wavered. I should have known, earlier Jake stated that Collingwood fans are for life and if you're not a Pies fan, you vehemently despise them. It's just the way it goes. Beers and meat pies (pot pie with ground beef inside) were on the menu. The game is fairly fast paced and pretty brutal. A big play or a big hit will turn the place into madhouse. It was and an absolutely wonderful experience. In the future, look for me at the Aussie Pub, in PB.

The next big day out was the Melbourne Zoo. It was pretty cool seeing all the obscure animals that aren't always in American zoos. The zoo was actually fairly small, only housing 2-3 of each species for viewing. Favorites included the indigenous platypus, koala and kangaroo. Being such a small facility and really uncrowded, it afforded us an up close and personal view of a lot of the animals. Susanna has great shots (coming soon). The best was a walking path through the kangaroo range. They'd come right up to you, have a sniff and be on their way.

Nearing the end of our stay with Jake, we planned out our next couple of moves.
• Campervan rented for a week: We'll be cruising The Great Ocean road in search of waves.
• Two more nights at Jake's: We have two days after we drop off the rental before our flight out. Coincidentally, we'll be back in Melbourne for ANZAC Day (Memorial Day). Lots of parties and a couple concerts (RATATAT & DJ SHADOW/CUT CHEMIST) around that time.
• Melbourne to Sydney, Sat. 26: Having decided that the drive all the way from Melbourne to Sydney would be too harsh, we opted for a shortcut. At only $79, it was all to easy to skip the long drive and maximize our time in the places we'd really rather be.

Gas=Petrol

From Lake Taupo

The metric system has invaded my life.

It's been a while since my last post so I apologize for the lengthy gap. As I sit here and write I realize that due to the time that has elapsed since me experiencing these events, my recollection may not be as detailed as I would like it to be or that you have grown accustomed to. With that said, I'm going to sort of bullet point my way through the rest of our stay in New Zealand.

Lake Taupo was a great place. Think Lake Tahoe but not as cold and with extreme sports replacing gambling. We took a long hike along the falls river, created by the damned lake. It was magnificent and my words can in no way do it justice. I've posted picts (Link on the top right of page) so you can really get a feel for it. Along the river and even throughout the center of the north island of NZ are hot springs. We jumped in the cold river and then into the nearby spring. The hot springs were just warm, but really hot. I know, duh. What did I expect?

After the best Thai food I've ever had, we happened on Lake Taupo Bungy. We witnessed a few blokes (guys) swan dive off and dip just there heads in the water below. Not one ounce of me had any remote interest in doing that. Much less paying to do that.

That night we ended up in Rotorua, home of the Lord Of the Rings' Shire. The following day we were amped to take the Hobbit tour, but our campsite manger and local, advised us not to waste our time or hundred bucks. We stayed lakeside that night and jetted for the north coast the next morning.

Traversing the north island in two days (most through its guts) and not having surfed in almost a week, I was ready for some beach time. Our goal, Coromandal, recommended by many, was a far drive so we stopped short in favor of sun and sand. We hit up Maketu Beach, no surf. Then onto Papamoa Beach, no surf. Then settled in Waihi Beach. A quiet little surf town with a pimp Top 10 park on the beach.

Now we'd really wanted to stay here for a while, but when we called to extend the car rental, they denied us. So we only stayed one night. Good news was I was able to get a surf in the day we arrived and before we left. Fun waist high waves and relatively warm water.

We even gave a Swiss couple, who spoke no English, a ride home in the rain from the Pizza Palour.

Having become accustomed to the road, by the time we got to Auckland, Susanna and I already decided that we'd rent another car and go back to Peha for the remaining two night in NZ. Albert backpackers was not were I wanted to wrap up my trip.

We get to Peha and it's just as gorgeous as I remember. Although, this time the waves are pumping... 10-12ft. Unfortunately, thier costline is relatively flat so there isn't any escaping huge surf or strong winds around a cliff or bend in the road. We wait it out and spend the night in an overpriced balsawood box. It was a nice enough campsite, but we weren't equipped with the emenities that the usual visitor has, ie: blankets and pillows. The manager, a bloke from Alaska helped us out and scrounged together what he could. That nught sucked and Sus and I weren't too excited about doing it again and paying $60 for it.

The next day we hiked up to a nearby waterfall and ran across "Peha Beach Stay". An awesome place with every included emenity you'de need. Jeff, the guy who runs the place is a local lifeguard and extremely nice guy. We were all too happy to leave our old digs behind. Surf was still out of control, so we made outselves at home and packed for our flight the next afternoon.

One last chance to surf. Thank goodness the swell cooperated. The winds had switched and the size had dropped enough to actually form some solid lines. One of 4 when I paddled out and it was firing! Hollow peaks and breaking really fast. Sort of a "Black's Beach" at low tide with just as much punch. A couple of the guys had it wired. After not surfing regularly for a while and then jumping right into stand up barrels, needless to say, it took me a few to get into rhythm. (including one "off the top ropes") I ended up with some good ones under my belt and a smile on my face. A nice send off from New Zealand. I'll definitely be back.

Tyre=Innertube

From Wine Tasting

Redbull comes in glass bottles.

Check out time is ten so we've become accustomed to be motivated and on the road by then. We charge directly into the city. Wellington is carries a lot of similarities to San Francisco. Water front locale, it's breezy, bustling, uber trendy and not cable cars, but cable buses. We meander about town for a while and post up at the waterfront long enough to add to both of our considerable amount of mosquito bites. My legs honestly look like I'm getting over the chicken pox. Alright, had enough of that, Onward to Martinborough.

Martinborough came highly recommended to us so we were amped to get there. It's a tiny town with 50 or so wineries. Most private, but a few public along a singular stretch of road, perfect for cycling to and from. Of course we rented bike and had our own tasting Tour de Martinborough. I enjoyed the wines sampled, but after our first stop, I had run out of descriptive answers to Susanna's, "What do you think?" By the end all I could muster was, "It''s good" and "I like the red better". Hardly a connoisseur, but at least I know what I like. It was really a blast pedaling through grape fields on a beautiful sunny afternoon. Hmm... I may have just thought of my new business in Temecula! 5 p.m. was fast approaching and the tour was completed with a delicious meal at the final winery - but not before Susanna poured the rest of her last tasting into the water pitcher on the bar. Classic!

Martinborough also happens to be very close to quite a few good surf spots. Knowing this, a decision was made to head south a little while longer to cape Palliser to see what mother nature had in store for us. Breathtaking scenic views with the south island barely visible on the horizon, rolling hills tapering down to black rock beached, perfect alcoves for wrapping swell, teeth like rock formations lining the coast all magnificent, but a little less sweet because there's only a ripple in the water. Oh well, we tried.

It's sunset at this point and the nearest Top 10 is well beyond what we feel like driving so the national park reserve will accommodate us tonight. I was happy for the change up. Not a sole around and a stones throw from the water. Sheep greatly outnumbering the residents in the closest fishing village. Stars shining brighter than I'd ever seen. I loved the solitude and price. Susanna, hardly slept.

The next morning we were up extra early for our longest drive of the trip, to Lake Taupo. Easily half of the north island in a strait shot. Susanna slept most of the way. Napier (Seaside town on the east coast full of art deco) was the lunch stop. The best Mongolian BBQ I've ever eaten! By the time we pulled into the Lake Taupo Top 10, we were spent. Fortunately, it was the sweetest one we've been to. Geothermal pool and spa. Membership has it's privileges, holler!

Hire=Rent

From Driving

It's been a while and we've covered more ground.

With no signs of surf and the next swell two days out, we opted to hit the highway again. Out of New Plymouth our pilgrimage continued south. Having traversed the upper half of the north island, we are in the final stretch before the southern tip, Wellington.

During our ride, the scenery is greener as the drought hasn't affected the south as greatly. Both Susanna and I remark that we are so glad that we'd been driving during the daylight hours. Not only is navigation easier, but it has afforded us the innate pleasure of visually experiencing a new place. Having seen the countryside as we have, it is so vividly etched in mind and will remain there for some time to come.

Wanganui is the halfway stop of our trek and is a quaint beach city. Popularized for its many activities along the Wanganui River. First stop, the beach. It's side-shore, waist high and gutless. The water temperature has also dropped noticeably. I don't surf but lucky for us there's a fantastic playground nearby. Equipped with zip-line swing and skate bowl (there has been skate park in every major town we've passed through).

After some cruising around we eat at a little cafe with overpriced Cokes ($3 for a mini bottle). I ordered the breakfast plate. It ended up coming with three different kind of meats on it. Kiwis really love their back fat (bacon). Next stop was another city lookout stop, recommended by the i-site folks (they really are the best). Erected some time ago, it almost looks medieval. A spiral tower of 175 steps with slit vertical windows spanning it's stature. At the top we can see the entire city, and were even told that on a clear day, the south island would be visible - complete crock of shit. With a bit of "quickie mart" tourism out of the way, we continue on.

The daylight is fading and my lunch is screaming at me by the time we get to Wellington. It comes as a surprise that our campsite is well out of the city. We're in Lower Hutt. About a 15 minute drive into the southern waterfront city. Later that evening I learn the intricacies of international calling and experience the "Pak 'n' Save".

OK, $4 a minute on a CC or $1.50 a minute for a calling card. How about 29-50 cents a minute? Thanks a friendly lass at the Top 10, I'm in the know about how to call in, around and out of the country that is New Zealand. Happy Birthday Jamie!